Humane Cage Traps
Animal Control Officers and others use cage traps in a variety of sizes to catch domestic and wild animals in a safe, humane manner. Check on availability before you need one. The cage front has a bi-fold type door which locks in an up/open position when trap is set. A footplate is located about 3/4 of the way into the cage. When stepped on it releases a side rod, which allows the front door to quickly close on an angle, trapping the dog. If the proper size cage isn't used, the door will attempt to close but might come down to rest on their rump instead. It will startle but not hurt. When the dog backs out and clears the door, it will spring shut.
Where to Set the Cage?
A good spot is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings. Don't delay. Locate a resident or business owner who will let you set up the cage on their property, ideally using the same areas where the dog has been seen. Choose easy, yet private, access spots to avoid the prying eyes of children or adults. Ask the Animal Control Officer to help you explain how the trap works and its importance to this rescue. Established law sets minimum times required to check traps. Checking more frequently is highly recommended and necessary, especially in severe or cold weather. Be advised that area residents will not appreciate their pets being locked up in your cage. Make sure the cage is on steady ground and doesn't wobble.
Bait for the Trap
Use wet dog food with a portion of: meatballs, roast beef, stinky cheese, hot dogs, etc. De-bone any meat you use; don't risk someone's dog choking. Don't use cat food. It attracts too many felines as well as skunks, possums and raccoons. Precious time is wasted when a trap has unwanted guests. Set food at the rear of trap on a shallow plate. Hang a hotdog inside, from the top and near the rear. Put a few small bits of food outside trap leading inside. Don't overload the area outside of the trap with food, a common mistake. The goal is to entice a hungry dog into the cage. Put in a water bowl. Cages with a rear door option make it easier to change food and release unwanted guests. Use handicap grabber tongs to reach or adjust items in the cages.
Other Items for the Trap
Dogs don't like walking on wire grates. Using a towel, cover the bottom grates up to and over, but not under, the footplate. Do not have items sticking out the front entrance as they will jam and prevent the door from closing securely, making it possible for the dog to get out. Place familiar items inside: a section of the dog's blanket, dog hair, toy, same items from other dog in house, owner's used T-shirt or pillowcase. Nothing familiar to use? Use scents or hair from another dog. Lost male dog? Use facecloth swiped with urine of female dog or one in heat. Place a straight stick through the bars about 2 inches in front of the footplate and about 3 inches up, so the dog has to step over it, placing paw directly on footplate (adjust for dog's size). Watch rod on side of cage.
Camouflage
Cages are generally covered to protect the dog from sun, rain, chilling winds and snow. Camouflage with dark green or brown shower curtain, tarp or other sturdy cloth. Cover most of cage except for the front door area. Position a few pine branches at the back end, but keep it open so the dog can see through and food scent drifts out. Place small branches and twigs on top to weight it and give it a natural, den-like appearance. Toss leaves, not sticks, just inside the entrance over wire grates still exposed. Secure covers and branches so they don't fall into entrance and jam the door or rod.
Monitoring
Always test the trap. Anyone who monitors the cage should be comfortable with releasing and/or resetting the trap. If not, assign duties. List two names with phone numbers for emergency contact on an 8 x 11 paper. Put the sheet in Xerox sheet protectors from office supply store or Ziploc bag and secure to cage with twist ties.